A mammoth undertaking

The Cathedral and Bishops' Palace at Albi

The holiday was based in the city (well, largish town) of Albi, about an hour north of Toulouse. It has a UNESCO world-heritage listed historic centre, with the biggest brick-built cathedral in the world. It was an absolute monster of a building, and dominated the countryside for miles around. That was rather the point – it was built as a statement as much of temporal power as of spiritual power, after the end of a particularly unpleasant episode known as the Albigensian Crusade. That was essentially a sectarian war between the Catholics and the Cathars in the south-west of France, which the Catholics comprehensively won. The large brick building right in the centre of the picture, directly in front of the cathedral, is the Bishops’ Palace. Bishops’ Fortress would be closer to the mark – it’s the only bishops’ palace I’ve ever seen that comes complete with arrow-slits!

A view of Albi from the river Tarn in front of the Cathedral

Despite its violent history, the centre of Albi today is a very peaceful place. I found a lovely tranquil spot, directly below the cathedral, from which to scatter some of Christopher’s ashes in the river Tarn. The picture above was taken from the spot – I think he would have approved.