One day of the holiday was spent exploring some of the numerous “bastide towns”, or fortified villages of the area. They were fought over and changed hands regularly during the Hundred Years’ War, and are a remnant from the time in the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries when the Plantagenet kings of England also ruled all of this region of France. Or, as my father put it when we were on holiday just north of here when I was a teenager “All this area used to be ours!”
Castelnau de Montmirail
I think my favourite bastide was the tiny village of Castelnau de Montmirail. It had a lovely central square surrounded by arcades, and was absolutely deserted. We were the only people there – even the inhabitants were nowhere to be seen!
Main street in Najac with the castle in distance
I also rather liked the slightly larger village of Najac, which was built on a (very) steep hill and crowned with a ruined castle. And yes, I did get all the way to the top of the tower!
A gate into Cordes sur Ciel
The most touristy of the bastides we visited was Cordes sur Ciel. The coach had to park in the lower town, and we took one of those rather tacky “tourist trains” up to the fortified village at the top of the hill – which at least saved us a climb. Some of the group also got the train back down again, but I preferred to walk down the cobbled streets, through the gates in the fortifications. I then had a delicious passion-fruit flavoured ice-cream at the bottom of the hill while I waited for the rest of the group.
